Karibu Kenya, Safari Njema (Welkom in Kenya, Voorspoedige reis)

The road to Nairobi is brand new although they are still working on it at places. For the most part though it is a pleasure to drive to Nairobi. To get through the Border was one big pleasure. It took us 45 minutes to pass through both borders. The officials were friendly and very efficient. The only less nice experience were the Masai woman who harassed us at the Kenya border post. They do not take NO for an answer and tapped on the windows, talking at the doors, hanging on the side mirrors and kept on walking from the passenger window to the drivers window. Otherwise, it was the nicest border posts yet! We had our first sight of the type of scenery one sees on TV….beautiful thorn trees, grassland, Maasai herding their cattle and hundreds of…….donkeys!!

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Then we saw Nairobi…..and hit the chaotic traffic.  It is indescribableDisappointed smile If one drives like a South African, you will never reach your destination. In Nairobi, you push your vehicles nose into the traffic and someone will stops to let you cross or enter a lane or whatever.  It took us 2.5 hours to drive the 10km to Jungle Junction.

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We are camping at Jungle Junction. For so long we read about and heard about this famous overland spot that it feels unreal to be part of the overland hub. Lots of overlanders leave their vehicles here and fly back home to continue their trip later on. JJ’s is moving premises the end of July so look out for their new address.  We met people from all over the world doing an Africa overland trip staying over here. The German guys that are travelling for a year through Africa that we have seen camping at the Point in Mossel Bay, a German guy on his way home to Germany from Namibia, a Dutch girl bicycling from Kampala to Mombasa and the best of all Chris and Julie driving from the UK back to South Africa who’s blog we followed since they started their trip. They are camping next to us and is also going to the Masai Mara at the same time as us. We had such a good get-to-gether last night while it was raining and we all sat under our porch to keep dry and eating leftoversOpen-mouthed smile

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Camping next to a stationary truck

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The Austrians that left for Turkana

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and their trucksI don't know smile

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The big trucks are in good companyWinking smile

Arno had the problem with the right front wheel that we had since they worked on the Hilux in the Kruger, fixed and the bakkie has been greased and looked over from front to back. We are hopefully ready for the rest of the trip.

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I tried to bake rusks again which worked out perfectly because there is an oven in the kitchen.  Only one problem….the small colony of Japanese backpackers took over the kitchen and put the oven offCrying face. Arno eventually made fire and we baked the tray that was in the oven in our bread pan  and is at the moment busy drying it (toasting it) over the coalsSurprised smile. It seems that it is working. The rest of the dough are freezed in our Engel and will be baked and toasted as we go along. Africa (with the Japanese interfering) is a tough continent!

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Braaing wors and drying rusks

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Our dried rusksOpen-mouthed smile ‘n Boer (en sy vrou) maak ‘n PLAN!

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Our Osiyeza friend Chris and Arno

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Julie in JJ’s dining room doing admin.

Tomorrow we are all going to the Masai Mara, so hold thumbs that we see a river crossing because the animals are on the move!

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Kwahere Tanzanania, Asante Sana (Goodbye Tanzania, Thank you)

                                                                                                                                               We left Dar es Salaam after visiting Shoprite to stock up our provisions and filling the petrol tanks. Because of the chaotic traffic and waiting nearly 2 hours for the ferry, we only got away at 13:00. We drove to Bagamoyo and found a campsite at the Bagamoyo Lodge. We shared the campsite with a group of Belgian kids. They were very easygoing except that 4 of them played some sort of game right through the night (next to our tent) which they found hilariously the later it became and the more beer they drank, keeping us awakeAnnoyed Bagamoyo is rich in history and we drove sort of by accident on our way to the campsite (T4A navigating us there) through an area that looks similar to Stone Town in Zanzibar, where the Arabs stayed in Bagamoyo way back in the slave trading era.

Camped for $7 p.p

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Early the next morning we drove to Peponi Beach Camp near Pangani, which was by hind site an unnecessary detour of about 140km not worth the while. If one is on on route to Mombasa it is maybe worth the 27km very bad gravel road to the campsite.  In the village where we turned of towards Peponi, the villagers put in their own type of speed bumps. Huge logs that they plaster with mud that makes it invisible. We hit such a bump at about 50kmph and the poor Hilux made a high jump. To make a long story short….luckily nothing broke but the left airbags shifted precariously.  We stayed there only to do our washing which by now were becoming a problem.

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Peponi Beach Camp $5pp per night

We thought to camp at The Elephant Motel at Same but because we left so early at Peponi, it was round about 12:00 when we drove through Same. We decided to try to reach Moshi. We are soooo glad that we drove through because after pitching our tent at the Keys Hotel’s campsite, we went across the street to the hotel to look at Kilimanjaro. The Camp Manager told us that one can see Kili from the hotel. We climbed the steps to the upper floor and viola…there Kilimanjaro was without clouds. Sadly not much snow to be seen on the top. We could not believe how lucky we were! It was about 18:00 and a bit misty but we tried to take a few photo’s of the mountain.

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We also witnessed a wedding party that passed the street between the camping area and the hotel. They had their own jolly band accompanying them.Note

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The happy coupleRed heart

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Party smileNote

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                      The next morning we drove to Arusha and camped at Sakina Campsite in the outskirts of Arusha on the main road to Nairobi. We had a beautiful view of Mt Meru from our tent.  Sakina is more a guesthouse for people doing the Kilimanjaro or Meru climb so we met Japanese, Americans, Germans and a Hollander that were either going or just done Kili or Meru. They could not believe what we were doing and were very impressed with how we were equipped. Our Hilux is now world famous because they took photo’s of it from every angleRolling on the floor laughing

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                                                                                                                                              We really enjoyed Arusha. We drove to the city centre to see the clock tower that is supposedly exactly halfway between Cape Town and Cairo. We drove to Karama Lodge twice to try to see Kilimanjaro again and luckily the afternoon before we left for Nairobi, after waiting an hour, the clouds lifted slowly and we could see the mountain top appearing through the clouds and being highlighted a light pink in the sunset. A very precious moment because it lasted about 10 minutes and the mountain was gone again.

EvidenceSecret telling smile

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Halfway!

Arno also fixed the airbags

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Camped at $7p.p. We can really recommend Sakina Campsite

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Kilometers of nurseries next to the streets

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Arusha’s tree lined streets

The rest of Zanzibar

We took a Dalla-Dalla (3 Ton truck) to Jozani Forest. The saying goes that there is always place for another passenger or baggage on a Dalla-Dalla. We witnessed this because we were never less than 34 passengers and the load on top grew like a mountain. It was an unique experience to be part of  the Zanzibari’s everyday’s living. The Dalla-Dalla stopped to pick up whole bunches of bananas, deliver huge bags of charcoal, bags of potatoes, baskets full of rice and even a delivery bicycle was loaded on top. Some passengers greeted friendly in Swahili but mostly we were stared at and then ignored. They like to ask you where you’re from. We were totally squeezed in at the back nearly sitting on each others lap with no place for our legs because of luggage being loaded all the way where our legs were supposed to be .It was huge funRolling on the floor laughing 

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Our Dalla-Dalla leaving us at the entrance to the forest.

Jozani Forest is the largest area of mature forest left in Zanzibar. We saw the rare red colobus monkeys as well as Sykes monkeys, lots of butterflies and did the 45 minute boardwalk through the Mangrove swamp and Mangrove forest which is the breeding ground for lots of different fish species. It was really worth the effort.

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Mangrove Forest

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The main channel to the sea. It was low tide when we were there.

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When we left, this mother and baby sat next to the road where we had to wait for our Dalla-Dalla

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We waited for about half an hour before a Dalla-Dalla came around the corner. We asked the driver if he is going back to Stone Town and hopped up. It was too full for us to sit together so Arno was squashed between 2 Swahili woman while I was squashed nicely at the back between 2 men. The one was hopping in and out whenever we stopped to get luggage from the top or putting luggage on the top, sometimes long after we drove off, suddenly appearing from above. The guy next to me asked me where I am from and what we were doing. In front of me 2 young men sat staring at me and then started discussing me without taking their eyes one second of me but with a definite twinkle in the eye. I asked the guy next to me what they were saying. He said:”They say you changed your white colour to a light brown”Secret telling smile I thanked them sincerely which they enjoyed.

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The last 2 passengers getting of in Stone Town

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At our favourite restaurant in Stone Town

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Red wine at 3500TS or R24 per glassDisappointed smile

The sad history of Zanzibar

We walked through the market early the next morning looking in awe at the hustle and bustle of Stone Town open market. The intermingling of different cultures, the colourfull and elegant way the Swahili woman dress and the unique mixture of Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements that can be seen, is totally overwhelming! The traffic is totally crazy with hooters blaring and because of Ramadan the Mosques also brings some extra sound to the already cacophony of sound. Stone Town consist mostly of a maze of narrow alleyways lined by houses, shops, bazaars and mosques. Bicycles and motorbikes just ring their bells or hoot to tell that they are coming past. Taxis are driving like hell and hoot when they want to pass!

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Closed because of restoration workAnnoyed

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We went to see the old Slave Market in Mkunazini  Street and were both very subdued when we left this heartbreaking sorrowful place. The Anglican Cathedral was built at the end of the 19th century in a large open area in Stone Town that previously hosted the slave market of Zanzibar. The place for the Cathedral was chosen to celebrate the end of slavery and the altar was in the exact spot where the main whipping post of the market used to beBroken heart. There is a monument to the slaves as well as the bunkers where the slaves were kept until they were put to sea. About 50000 slaves were send from this market every year. They were caught in Tanzania, Kenya, Zambia, Zimbabwe and as far as the DRC, brought to Bagamoyo on the coast and then taken over to Zanzibar to be sold.

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The beautiful doors of the Cathedral

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It is still used as a church.

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The Altar

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The circle is the exact spot where the whipping post were……

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Lots of symbolism built in everywhere in the church

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The cells where the slaves were kept

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Seawater came in at high tide to wash away the dirt

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These are what was used

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So so sad…….Broken heart Unbelievable that one human being can do this to another humanCrying face

Day one on Zanzibar

Our taxi were waiting for us at the gate at the harbour. We were told by the missionaries at Riversyde, Iringa to try the Hiliki House Guesthouse. The manager named Moudy (pronounced Moody) made us feel very welcome although we had a huge shock when he told us the tariff. We negotiated with him and got our room for less than the usual price because we were staying a few nights. This was the first time in 10 weeks that we stayed in a house, slept on a real bed and most wonderful….have our own en-suite bathroom with HOT water, clean towels and someone else to make us breakfastOpen-mouthed smileOpen-mouthed smile The house is a renovated Arab mansion in a quiet area of Stone Town opposite the Victoria Gardens but within walking distance of everything in Stone Town. We are very much on schedule with our budget and felt we earned the luxury of treating ourselves on Zanzibar……so this was pure bliss.

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The husband sitting at his favorite spot

We started exploring  Stone Town witch is the old city and the cultural heart of Zanzibar. We walked the winding alleys and looked at the grand (long time ago) Arab houses with their beautiful brass studded carved wooden doors. Stone Town was declared recently a World Heritage site by Unesco. Zanzibar was one of the most important trading centers in the Indian ocean on its heyday more than 200 years ago. The buildings are in a bad state of repair because the building material used originally is coralline rock that easily erodes. Most of the Hotels in Stone Town are housed in renovated Arab houses. In the 19th century Stone Town was especially renowned for trading spices and slaves. David Livingstone also stayed there in 1866  while he was busy preparing for his final expedition into East Africa. In 1896 the sudden rebellion of the Zanzibari Omanis against the British Rule led to the Anglo-Zanzibar war witch is remembered as the shortest war of history. The Sultan surrendered after 45 minutes bombardment of Stone Town by the Navy.

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The British Consulate

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The Old Fort built by the Omani Arabs after  expelling the Portuguese in 1699

We had our first dinner at the Forodhani  Gardens. At sunset it becomes crowded because tourists and locals gather in a popular street market in the main square to have dinner eating Swahili and Zanzibari cuisine as seafood, samoosas, cassava, chapiti and the one I loved most Mkate wa ufuta, a thick local version of naan bread.  We enjoyed the food but had to take the consequences  with our stomachs that protested loud and clear after the second day of Zanzibar foodAnnoyed

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It was quite an adventure to walk through the labyrinth of alleyways in the dark back to our house!

Karibu Zanzibar

Arno booked a Tuk-Tuk for 8:00 to pick us up at the campsite. We wanted to go to Zanzibar on the 10.30 Ferry. The Tuk-Tuk deposited us at the HV Kigamboni Ferry which we had to  take to Dar es Salaam.  Poor Arno had to carry our bag on his shoulder and a small backpack all the way to the fast ferry port for 1.5km weaving through trillions of humans Wilted rose. I hugged my handbag and camera while walking behind him checking that no-one tries to open the backpack. It became quite a run because we still had to buy our tickets. We were JUST in time and got very nice seats on the undercover open deck. Luckily the sea was calm and the 2 hour trip was very nice. There are quite a lot of small islands with lodges on it, around Zanzibar and near the coast.

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Our Tuk-Tuk (2000TS or R14)

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The bigger MV Magogoni Ferry that took us across to Dar 2200TS for the Hilux and us but when you go over without a vehicle it cost 200TS per person (R1.35p.p)

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There is a huge market on the Dar es Salaam side witch can be seen from the ferry portIMG_7385

This is only a small portion of the market and peopleSurprised smile

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The fast Ferry …. Kilimanjaro 3 costing 150000TS return or $35 p.p one way.IMG_7135

Leaving Dar behind

We also saw lots and lots of Dow’s and boats with many (too many) fisherman’s on board

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One can see the African shoreline for a very long time and only then realizes how big the City stretches along the coast. Then Zanzibar is visible on the horizon. We phoned our host at the guesthouse on route to make sure that he will pick us up at the harbour. Funny thing is that one has cellphone signals all the way from Dar to Zanzibar.  I even BBM’d the children to tell them about our whereabouts while on the Ferry.

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Our first view of Stone Town from the ferry

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Iringa towards Dar es Salaam

We decided to do a few day drives to win time to get to Dar es Salaam. We do not really have a time schedule but because certain children indicated that they want to meet us on a specific date in the future at a undecided place, we have to move on a little bit faster than the previous 2 monthsThinking smileSmile. We stayed at the Riversyde Campsite about 15km outside Iringa. It seems that this is the get together destination for all the Tanzania Missionaries where they get a course in Swahili before being sent in all directions across the country. Met very interesting people from all over the globe. There were also 2 UK teachers doing a Geography and History 3 week adventure and cultural tour with  their 16 year old pupils. They had to carry a huge jug of water on their heads (showering themselves), slaughter a poor chicken and cook dinner in an indigenous manor under the supervision of the Tanzanian Swahili speaking tutor. It was all great fun although not so much fun for us because their VERY smoky fire made not at their camp but in front of our tent, Baring teeth smileput our campsite free of mosquitos but totally under smoke. We wanted to do washing and wash the bakkie, so we stayed 2 nights.

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Riversyde Camping 20000TS (R135) per night.

Our next stop was the Tan-Swiss Campsite & Lodge just before you enter the Mikumi National Park. The A7 North-East Highway goes through Mikumi that is part of Selous National Park. We saw lots of Giraffe, zebra, impala and Elephant (in the distance) while driving through the park. There are numerous sign posts telling you what the fine will be if you kill an animal. Even the suicidal lorries kept to the speed limit! Arno also got a speed fine of 30000TS (R200) driving 68km in a 50km zone. There are signposts telling you to drive 50kmph but never tell you when you are out of the area and that specific place that he got the fine, the officer said they know that everyone thinks they are out of the area and that is why they are catching about every second car thereConfused smile. They were very friendly and  seemed a bit ashamed of having to fine us because they are are not truthful with their sign posts. Well not too bad driving 10 000km and get your first fine……and he never even try to drive fast. I was very sorry for himWilted rose. We also drove through Baobab Valley which was awe inspiring and very impressive.  Thousands and thousand Baobabs. Beautiful but difficult to capture.IMG_7000

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All on the same road with you, lorries and busses!

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It was a long day on the road from Tan-Swiss to Dar! It took us 7 hours to drive the 290km in total chaotic traffic with road conditions unable to photograph or to explain. The tar has been tread into sunken tracks with walls of tar on each side and a high middle between you and the coming traffic. You are constantly fighting to keep control of the bakkie because the tracks are lorry sized tracks.

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Boarding the Ferry

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Driving street up and street down looking for the Ferry Port

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Confused smile

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T4A it seems,do not  know that the Chinese are building roads all over the place and seems to upgrade the whole Dar es Salaam, so the road to the Ferry Port is blocked and becoming a walkway, meaning that we had to change course that confused T4A even more than us. After driving in hectic traffic street up and down, we stopped, asked and drove to the port. The trip across cost 2200TS (R15) and took about 7 minutes. Very exciting. We are camping at Mikadi Beach on the South coast of Dar es Salaam where Arno serviced the truck, I did washing, Skyped with the children and updated the blog. We are camping right on the beach overlooking lots of small islands. It is another small Paradise. We are taking the Ferry to Zanzibar tomorrow leaving our beloved truck here at the campsite being looked after by Maasai Askaris for a fee of $5 per day. A brand new adventure awaits us!! Talk again from Zanzibar Spice IslandIsland with a palm tree

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A Tanzanian Dow passing our campsite this morning. Different from the Mozambique Dow

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View from our tent

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No words needed!
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Hilux being looked after with loving careRed heart

 

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Updating the blogSmile with tongue out

Our first few days in Tanzania

We crossed the border on the 3rd of July. At the Tanzanian border we got a huge surprise…..! The visas for South Africans has been abolished from the 1st of JulyLaughing out loud.  We scored $100.  It was a very slow procession to get through Customs. It seemed as if the Immigration officer were new and not knowing what to do. The guy sitting at the other window had to coach him and then he vanished for long periods through a door. Luckily there were an Overland truck driver on his way to pick up Overlanders in Nairobi, who we could chat to while all of us were waiting in the queue. At the gate we were met by a very professional looking guy who told us that he is selling the third party insurance needed for Tanzania. We told him that we do not need a runner and he discreetly vanished after telling us his name. When finished at Immigration,  he appeared and told us we must now go to the Customs counter (which we could see ourselves!) for the Carnet. He talked Swahili to the Customs guy and it seemed as if everything suddenly took on momentum. He hovered around in the office without bothering us at all. The officials told us that we must now go and buy the insurance but we must negotiate. So our new friend named  Seith took us to his office in a small ally next to the Customs building and the negotiation started!   To make a long story short, we bought our Comesa insurance from him and are now fine with third party insurance for all the African countries we are driving through. This was the one thing that we did not get in South Africa. We can really recommend Seith. He was without being intrusive, very helpful.

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                                                        Seith (Pronounced Sid)

It was a very interesting drive from the border to Mbeya on a winding ever climbing road through tea plantations and rice beds where cattle were grazing. The traffic in Mbeya is chaotic but we could draw money from a Standard Bank ATM before driving to our campsite. We camped about 25km out of Mbeya at the Utengule Coffee Lodge. The whole Cape Colony were there gathered on the Restaurants open stoep. We had a very nice chat with them and afterwards they came to inspect our camp. Stoffel Walters from Malmesbury’s  wife surprised us by putting flowers on our bed and bedside table. That was so cute of herLaughing out loud and well appreciated! They loved our CasaRed rose

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A taxi or Tuk-tuk so overcrowded that the last passenger sat outsideDisappointed smile

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Another taxiSurprised smile

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Pink Franchipansies for the nicest Casa in the Campsite

Utengule Coffee Estate is a stopover place that caters rather for people wanting luxury accommodation than camping. We paid $10 per person without electricity and not very nice ablution facilities but it was nice to have internet $5 and to Skype with Naas & Heleen and downloaded emails.

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We thought that we could reach Chogela’s Campsite near Ruaha National Park from Mbeya but as previously said….distances, time and road conditions are not what you expect in the real AfricaConfused smile so we browsed on internet (yes that you have about everywhere!) browsed campsites on T4A and Lonely Planet and viola!! The Old Farmhouse appeared on the scene. we were sooooo glad. We don’t’ want to drive at night and it was later than  usual for us to be on the road. Poor Arno, the driving is really difficult because the road is either very good or very bad and the bus drivers are on a mission to collide with you coming 2 fold from front as the lorry drivers  biggest wish is to jack-knife you of the road when they pass you at an incredibly high speed. It seems that we are the only people keeping withiin the speed limit!!!

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Campsite at The old Farmhouse. Spacious camping at $6 p.p without electricity but with fantastic ablution facilities.

Our next destination was Ruaha where we stayed at Chogela’s Campsite about 10km from Ruaha National Park’s gate. We really enjoyed the huge Campsite, Chongela’s chats and the information that we got from Steph Perkins about her Maasai and He-He tribe Community project named the Ruaha Cultural Tourism Program funded by the UN. She is already 2 years busy with the program and will go home in August for the first time to visit her native USA for 3 weeks. The Manager of the Mahove Cultural Tours (Village tours) is Rectika, a Maasai. It was very interesting to camp there and experience the day to day tribal life. Reminds one of the Himbas in Kaoko. Rectika  insisted on a photo with Arno. We went for a hike to Ruaha’s gate and saw Olifant spoor as well as a huge cat spoor. Lion?Disappointed smile

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Road to Ruaha. At this stage gravel but will be tarred in the near future

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Arno & Rectika

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Traditional Maasai chairs. Very comfortable.

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Camping under the trees at Chogela’s

Back in Iringa we stopped in the centre of the city to buy a few things. I stayed at the truck while Arno went shopping. The hustle and bustle is really something to see. The people are very friendly, no harassment, rather trying to teach us SwahiliWinking smile . There famous greeting of Jambo, (Hallo or How are you, Safari Njema (have a safe journey) and Bafana-Bafana were heard when they walked past. They love to greet by hand (African style) and whenever you say something they like to do the hand thing again…..over and over.

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We saw red and green crosses on houses and signposts all over Tanzania. There were also numbers and arrows written on the walls. We asked Kevin that parked next to us in Iringa and started teaching us Swahili, what it means. The Chinese are building new roads and the houses with green crosses must move further away and the owners will be paid out by the Government while the red crossed houses are illegal, must be demolished and won’t be paid out.

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Must move, will be paid out

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Sorry….not going to be paid out!

Random facts about being on Safari

  • Patience, patience and again patience. Getting around in Africa needs a lot of patience. Roads are bad or sometimes worse…so it takes much longer to reach your destination. Going trough border post needs a LOT of patience because either the customs guy don’t know what the newest procedure is or he leaves the office and let you wait….sometimes for 45 minutes before coming back. Up to now we were lucky. All and all we only spent about 8 hours at 3 border posts without having too much trouble.
  • One also becomes very close to your partner and vehicle. We are totally tuned into every move, mood etc. of each other as well as the bakkie. Sometimes this also needs patienceWinking smile Like when we were driving down the mountain from Livingstonia. It sounded like this: Elize: EEK!! This is VERY close to the edge! I can’t even see the bottom of the gorge from my window!  Arno: Yes, I saw that when we came up 2 days ago. Elize: Can’t you drive closer to the cliff? Arno: If I drive nearer to the cliff I will break the mirror. Elize: Better leaving the mirror behind than losing the bakkie and our lives rolling down the mountainDisappointed smile. Arno silently concentrating on driving. Elize; EEK! That was VERY VERY close to the edge!! Arno silently concentrating on driving.Sarcastic smile
  • Campsites are not always what you expect. They are mostly more expensive than what you wrote down, downloaded or read up in Lonely Planet. The “hot shower” they promised are about 1% hot and for the rest cold. We also find that campsite owners are in general not in tune with campers and the facilities are not up to standard or even practical. Surely they never camped themselves.
  • We saw more travellers from the Western Cape than local people. It seems that the whole Cape Colony decided to come to the Serengeti in a wild crazy rush…..3 weeks from Cape Town, Calitzdorp, Worcester, Malmesbury, Darling, Paarl, Wolseley, Ceres, Caledon etc. chasing up and down in the most extravagant over equipped expensive outfits under the sun. Some extend the trip up to 4 or 6 weeks. They misjudge the distances, condition of roads and shorter daylight and we hear them arrive between 10:00 to 2:00 at night in the campsites just to start their crazy journey at sunset the next morning. When we speak to them they can’t tell you where they saw what or when! They spent thousands of DOLLARS in the National Parks but all in a hectic rush.
  • We learnt to do our washing once a week. To drive around with smelly dirty washing is not nice and it can become a huge work if you wait to long. Up to now we washed every Sunday all our dirty clothes and changes our bed linen and wash that as well. 2 Pair of hands, lots of chatting and laughing makes it an easy going job. Normally the bakkie also gets a wash at the same time. Once a month our whole outfit get washed when we get a campsite with grass and available water.
  • Up to now Petrol and drinking water were filled up when necessary and without any problem.
  • We eat lots of fresh veggies, fruits and bake our own bread from time to time.

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HEALTH

  • 1 Left big toe injured because of letting the black pot lid fall onto it (Arno)
  • 1 Right big toe injured because of stumbling over a hidden brick (Arno)
  • Light attack of Malaria (Arno)
  • Numerous small finger cuts because of cutting biltong (Elize)
  • Numerous different type of insect bites that itch and burn like hell especially at night! (Elize)
  • Otherwise fitter, slimmer and browner than at the start of the trip (Arno & Elize)

FIGURES

We are still on schedule with the budget.

  • Petrol stays the most expensive commodity
  • Fresh food is very cheap and we buy it in small villages
  • We are still stocked with meat but buy chicken and mince where possible and affordable
  • Dry provisions not necessary to buy yet…still have lots. Only bought Longlife milk twice that costs R15 per liter.

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This cost about R50 at Mbaya’s fresh veggies market

  • We got 39 tomatoes for 1000 TS or about R6
  • 2M Beer in Mozambique – R10
  • Carlsberg in Malawi = R10
  • 500ml Kilimanjaro, Castle or Safari in Tanzania – R13
  • 5L Overberg Red Wine – R230 – R300  (This comes on the wish list for when back at homeThumbs down)
  • Petrol – Mozambique – R17 per liter
  • Petrol – Malawi – R20 per liter
  • Petrol  – Tanzania – R13.50
  • Kilometers travelled – 8 500  used 1168 liter petrol. Average of 7.3km per liter
  • Average speed – 46.8km hConfused smile
  • Distances between overnight camps – not more than 300km because of the road conditions and crazy traffic.
  • Got lost – twice and both times because of the GPSBaring teeth smile
  • Lost things – 1 brand new bottle of body lotion left in bathroom – Goody Villas, Mozambique and 1 brand new tube of toothpaste left in bathroom – Coffee Estate, Tanzania (ElizeEmbarrassed smile)

Livingstonia

In Mzuzo we had Mzuzu brand coffee at the Mzuzu Coffee Shop and used their Internet to update the blog. Then the Hilux climbed a mountain! We turned off at Chitimba towards Livingstonia. The road is forcing its way up the escarpment in a series of acute “hairpin” bends. It is a dirt road and difficult to access without being sometimes afraid of the hair raising nearness of the edge falling away more than a thousand meters. It is something between the Swartberg Pass and Gamkaskloof only steeper with shorter “hairpin” bends. We had twice to stop and reverse to get through the bends……very scaryDisappointed smile! It’s like a very long (10km) very steep Van Zyl’s Pass in Kaoko, Namibia.  It took us 1 hour up and 1 hour down. Arno drove in 4×4 low range and varied between 1st and 2nd gear. He is the coolest 4×4 driver and I am really impressed with his ability to handle a very difficult route. Although, I must admit that at certain times I advised him to rather drive nearer to the rock cliff because I couldn’t see the bottom of the gorge out of my window. He is admittedly the brave hero of the dayRed heart

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Camped at $6 p.p.p.n

IMG_6791_thumb1  We camped at Lukwe Eco-Farm which was also a fantastic experience. Walked to the Mushroom farm which is also a campsite but not so clean and well organised as Lukwe. If you are not afraid of heights, you can camp there right on the edge of the cliffs. We also visited the 2 waterfalls. The one waterfall is 50 meter high with a cave behind in which according to folklore, people hided from the Slave traders

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See the lake in the background. IMG_6799_thumb2

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The recycle rubbish “bins”

Livingstonia town is a unique pocket of colonial Africa. Relative isolated, quiet and it was very interesting to visit the museum in the Stone House which details early European exploration and missionary work in Malawi, a church dating from 1894, craft shop, coffee shop and believe it or not a University and Technical College!

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The Old Stone House

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The cave is behind the top part of the waterfall

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